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Neke knjige koje biste možda voljeli pročitati Teorija Teorija i praksa jedrenja CA Marchaj 1964. godine Aero-hidrodinamika plovidbe CA Marchaj 1979. godine Jedrenje nastupa CA Marchaj 1996. godine Jedrenje visokih performansi Franka Bethwaitea 2010 (drugo izdanje) Praksa Expert Dinghy Racing, Paul Elvstrom 1963. godine Vjetar i strategija Stuart Walker 1973. godine Championship Dinghy Sailing Christophera Caswella i Davida Ullmana 1978. godine Pogled u jedra Bruce Banks / Dick Kenny 1979. godine Pobjednički - Psihologija natjecanja Stuarta Walkera 1980. godine Napredna trkačka taktika Stuarta Walkera 1981 Jedri, utrkuj se i pobjedi Eric Twiname 1982. godine Ovo je Brzo podešavanje plovila Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 1984. godine Jedrite do pobjede u seriji - Gumenjak Helming, Lawrie Smith 1983. godine - Strategija vjetra David Houghton 1984. godine - Ugađanje gumenjaka od Lawrie Smith 1985. godine - Brzina plovila Rodney Pattisson / Tim Davison 1986. godine RYA Race Training Manual, Jim Saltonstall 1983. godine Zahvaljujem Brian Outramu (Australija) na popisu za čitanje Recite mi svoje omiljene knjige kako bih ih mogao dodati na popis

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. Put thick lines on the sails so you can see if you are pointing to high or have a backwinding mainsail. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Taking on board the advice I was given, led to a 2nd in the first TT event at Manor Park splitting John Tushingham and Craig Richards. This is the only warm up prior to the nationals. The blog tells the story and learnings from the event.

1. noga uz vjetar Što trebaš znati Izvršite svoj plan Na što treba paziti Zaokruživanje oznaka planirajte znatno prije pristupa Koje pozive možete upućivati Detalj Izvršite svoj plan. Pa, to pretpostavlja da ga imate. Što smatrate da bi trebalo ući u vaš plan? O tome smo razgovarali u odjeljku "Jedrenje prije početka" OVDJE Pokušajte sagledati tečaj iz različitih kutova i provjerite svoja zapažanja dok plovite svojim brodom prije početka i gledate druge brodove. Saznajte koja je strana vjetrovite noge povoljna, bilo promatranjem s obale ili kad izađete na plovidbu. Izgleda li vjetar s jedne ili s druge strane jači. Postoje li prepreke (drveće, zgrade, veliki čamci), što može utjecati na vjetar duž cijelog kursa. Kako udari silaze niz kurs, favoriziraju li jednu ili drugu stranu, mijenja li se vjetar u njima i koji je prihvatljiv pri ulasku u udar. Postoji li značajna obalna linija koja može uzrokovati savijanje vjetra. Ako možete, poradite s drugim čamcem kako biste testirali vjetar ploveći uz suprotne strane otkucaja. Kako god to učinili, postavite plan i slijedite ga sve dok se uvjeti ne promijene i dokazi snažno ne ukazuju na drugačiji postupak. Držite se sredine tečaja osim ako postoji očit razlog da budete drugdje i promatrajte mještane da vidite kamo idu. Vaši golovi u prvom taktu Izbjegavajte gužve i ulaz u boks Iskoristite bilo kakve zavoje vjetra Nastavite tražiti smjene Izbjegavajte zone vjetra uzrokovane preprekama Minimizirajte ljepljenje Kada pokušavate doći do omiljene strane staze, žrtvujte 1 ili 2 broda saginjanjem umjesto da se zalijepite i potencijalno odvučete na pogrešnu stranu staze. Planirajte unaprijed pristup vjetrovitoj oznaci. Ako ste blizu fronta, imate određenu fleksibilnost u pristupu i možda možete izvršiti pristup u trenutku pristupanja lukom u zadnji trenutak ako se to preferira, no ako ste u gomili, pobrinite se da se rano postavite na desni bok, barem izvan zone 4 broda, tako da možete brzo ploviti na čistom zraku. Provjerite znate li koju stranu trčanja želite i prema tome postavite svoje plovilo. Stvaranje tuče na stazi Ovdje je vrijedno spomenuti neke od tuča koje smijete napraviti na startu i plovidbi oko staze. Pravila navode neke dopuštene pozive navedene u nastavku Od strane natjecatelja “24 mjesta za lijepljenje” na prepreci ili za prednost plovila - neobavezan odgovor koji taktirate Sazivanje prosvjeda - 24 prosvjeda 15 Brod 33 izvan kontrole (i stoga postaje prepreka) Taktička tuča Desni bok Ostani budan Nema mjesta - za ulijetanje iznutra prema vjetrometini Preklapanje Nema preklapanja Označite sobu Od strane Odbora Pojedinačni opoziv Opći opoziv Opoziv zastavice Code U Opoziv crne zastave Pozdrav od promatrača, npr 59 pogodak. Kontakt između 45 i 67 Sve drugo samo zbunjuje. Uzalud je ulaziti u raspravu dok svi vaši konkurenti i promatrači slušaju. Neće vam zahvaliti na tome. Primjer videozapisa zbunjujućih poziva

Prije nekog događaja Odredite koji je vaš cilj u jedrenju Poznaj svoje trkačka pravila i taktike Pažljivo upravljajte svojim ulaganjem održavanje plovila Brzo plovite desnom stranom ugađanje i postavljanje plovila Upoznajte svoje radio kontrole Učinkovit vježbanje brodom Osigurajte dosljedno postavljanje pomoću kontrolni popisi Znajte kako vrijeme će vam pomoći Koristan reference

Racing results 2023 Events Schedule IOM Hampton Court Charity 1st Lincoln District 2nd to Darin Ballington Chipstead District 3rd to Peter Stollery and Craig Richards Bourneville District Did not attend due to virus Poole District 2nd to Craig Richards Manor Park District 2nd to Chris Harris Birkenhead Veterans 1st Watermead District Cancelled due to lack of entries Coalhouse Fort Open Postponned due to too much water Huntingdon Open 3rd to Colin Goodman and Darin Ballington Poole Open 1st (tied on points with Tony Edwards but better discard) Lincoln Ranking 5th Saturday and 4th on Sunday Chipstead Open 1st Keighley Ranking 4th Saturday, 2nd Sunday Chris Harris won both Fleetwood Nationals 6th Frensham Open 1st. Clean sheet of results Spain Europeans 23rd Woodspring Ranking 4th and 6th Emsworth Open 2nd Eastbourne Open 2nd to Dorian Crease in Cheinz Marblehead Chipstead GAMES 1 1st Gust of 25 knots. Three rivers GAMES 8th Suffered from slipping main leech tension fitting Frensham Open In bed with flu Lincoln Ranking Recovering from flu Guildford GAMES 2nd to James Hadden in Up Guildford GAMES 1st Datchet Ranking 6th Datchet Ranking 11th plagued with winch problems Keighley Nationals 6th. Getting to grips with new boat Three rivers GAMES Cancelled Datchet Ranking DF95 Manor Park TT 2nd to Craig Richards Poole Nationals Retired after leading on day 1 2022 Results IOM Manor Park 2nd (winner Darin Ballington) Chipstead 4th (Winner Peter Stollery) Hampton Court 3rd (winner Darin Ballington, 2nd Peter Stollery) Poole 3rd to Craig Richards and Tony Edwards Nationals 24th Chipstead Joint 1st on points but lost on count back to Dave Green Veterans 2nd to winner Tony Edwards Eastbourne 2nd to winner Ken Binks 2 Islands 4th to winner Rob Wilson Poole Ranking 4th and 7th. Tony Edwards won day one and Craig Richards day 2. W Kirby Ranking 12th and 8th Most of the Northern team were on the water. Chelmsford 2nd to Colin Goodman Emsworth 1st Manor Pk Rank 7th and 13th. Most the top UK sailors racing. Winner - Peter Stollery Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st. Masterclass `Met and Southern District championships 1st 2021 Results Chipstead 15th Alternative A day to forget Veterans 15th Alternative Bourneville 1st Britpop (Midland regional champs) Nationals 37th out of 76 - that what happen when you are last off the line in most of the starts. Ranking 3 19th Ranking 4 3rd Frensham open 1st Ranking 5 21st 3 hours sleep in the camper the night before Ranking 6 23rd Only finished 4 out of 9 races due to broken shroud Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st (Metropolitan and southern regional champs) Current UK ranking 21. Room for improvement.

Ostali dobavljači UK Staklena vlakna istočne obale Precizne vage Dremel - neophodan za kućnu izgradnju staklenih vlakana Trake cedra Tvrtka Cedar Strip Brodovi modela Cornwall Tajmer za odbrojavanje Anemometar za vjetar NAS Započnite ovdje u American Model Yacht Association

Prijava Setting sails on the rig A conversation with my brother the other day got me thinking about how the IOM rig should work. We both used to sail on dinghies and yachts. Mostly we would sail on fractional rig yachts where the bottom of the mast was controlled by the shrouds, spreaders and runners. The bend was fixed up to the hounds and you increased or decreased that bend, using the runner, however once set the mast was fairly rigid. The trick was to have the mast work for you above the hounds on the un-supported section of the fractional rig. The ideal scenario went like this. If you hit a gust the top of the mast head would bend, flattening the upper part of the mainsail and opening the leech so the boat could accelerate into the gust. As soon as the wind eased the mast would straighten and power was restored. We once sailed on a boat which had the balance of the rig exactly right. It meant you could carry more sail in greater breeze and gave a massive competitive advantage. The boat won a lot of key offshore and inshore races. However the IOM rig is between a fractional and a masthead rig on a yacht where the forestay and backstay meet at the top of the mast and the bend and therefore mainsail leech control is managed entirely through adjustment of the runners. Of course you have other adjustments on yachts which are important, eg mainsail foot, cunningham, etc, all of which have to be adjusted through the wind ranges, but in this article I am just focusing on mast bend and impact on the mainsail. The IOM rig is somewhere between a masthead and fractional rigged yacht. .Our forestay sits above the hounds with a backstay at the top of the mast. The geometry is set up so that with prebend build into the spar, straightened out by the backstay, tension is put into the luff and leech line of the headsail. The position of the jib swivel line to the deck ensures that most of that tension goes down the luff of the jib and not the leech line. Mast bend and therefore mainsail leech shape is controlled throughout the mast ram, spreader rake and tension on the backstay. Jib leech tension is controlled by the leech line. We want a rig setup that will give a little in puffs so the boat accelerates and drives, rather than heels and stall. So how can that be achieved. If you read all the key advice on rig setup, you tighten your shroud tension just enough to stop the leeward shroud going soft when upwind. This allows the mast to flex a little in puffs providing acceleration. If the mast is too rigid, airflow will stall and the boat will not accelerate in the puff. Start your boats setup with the boat pointing as though on a run. Trim the back stay so the mast is straight fore and aft. Set the mainsail foot to a depth of 15mm or whatever your sailplane suggests. Set up the kicker tension so the mainsail leech is slightly twisted with the top batten just outside parallel to the main boom. Check both gybes to make sure the mast is straight vertically. The twist should be the same on each gybe. Then point the boat as though on a beat. I assume you have set the rake as per the boat plan using a measuring stick or tape measure. Our goal is to set the mainsail so the top batten is parallel to the centreline of the boom by adjusting the backstay and mast ram. Once set up there should be little need for change through the wind ranges other than 1mm tweaks on the backstay. In a recent zoom meeting with Brad Gibson for the Central Park MYG in the US, Brad talked about adjusting the backstay by plus or minus 2mm. I don't know about you, but in the past I was slightly more aggressive about the use of the backstay. Now I understand more about the precision of the setup and know what the top guys do, I am more careful. With any luck if you have done all this you will have a perfect looking rig, and if you have not overdone the shroud tension, the rig will work for you in the gusts. There is enough information available on rig setup up on the web, that you should be able to achieve the right setting first time and more important, recreate that setting every time you go sailing. Here are some pictures to show the impact of 1 mm changes on the B rig backstay. Start from the bottom Postavljanje jedra na platformu Razgovor s mojim bratom neki dan naveo me je na razmišljanje o tome kako bi IOM -ova oprema trebala funkcionirati. Oboje smo nekada plovili gumenjacima i jahtama. Uglavnom bismo plovili na frakcijskim jahtama s platformom gdje je dno jarbola kontrolirano pokrovima, posipačima i trkačima. Zavoj je bio fiksiran do goniča, a vi ste taj zavoj povećavali ili smanjivali pomoću trkača, međutim jednom postavljeni jarbol bio je prilično krut. Trik je bio u tome da vam jarbol radi iznad goniča na nepodržanom dijelu frakcijske platforme. Idealan scenarij je krenuo ovako. Ako udarite u udar, vrh glave jarbola bi se savio, spljoštivši gornji dio glavnog jedra i otvorivši pijavicu kako bi čamac mogao ubrzati u nalet. Čim bi vjetar popustio, jarbol bi se uspravio i napajanje je obnovljeno. Jednom smo plovili brodom koji je imao ravnotežu na platformi točno. To je značilo da možete nositi više jedra na vetar i dalo je ogromnu konkurentsku prednost. Brod je pobijedio na mnogim ključnim utrkama na moru i kopnu. Međutim, IOM -ova platforma nalazi se između frakcijske i jarbolne jahte na jahti gdje se špijun i leđa sastaju na vrhu jarbola i zavoja te se stoga kontrolom pijavica na glavnom jedru u potpunosti upravlja podešavanjem trkača. Naravno da imate i druge prilagodbe na jahtama koje su važne, npr. Noga glavnog jedra, cunningham itd., A sve se to mora prilagoditi vjetrovinama, ali u ovom članku samo se usredotočujem na zavoj jarbola i utjecaj na glavno jedro. IOM -ova oprema je negdje između jarbola i frakcijsko opremljene jahte. .Naš uporišnik sjedi iznad goniča s naslonom na vrhu jarbola. Geometrija je postavljena tako da se s predpregibom ugrađenim u lopaticu, ispravljenom uz oslonac, napetost uvlači u liniju jedrenjaka i pijavica na glavnom jedru. Položaj zakretne linije uboda prema palubi osigurava da većina te napetosti ide niz potporni stub, a ne uz liniju pijavica. Zavoj jarbola i stoga oblik pijavica na glavnom jedru kontrolira se cijelim jarbolom, grabuljama rasipača i napetošću na leđima. Napetost pijavica pijanice kontrolira se linijom pijavica. Želimo postavu platforme koja će dati malo u naduvavanju pa će čamac ubrzati i voziti, umjesto petama i zastojem. Pa kako se to može postići. Ako pročitate sve ključne savjete o postavljanju platforme, zatežete napetost pokrova tek toliko da spriječite da zavjetrni pokrov omekša tijekom vjetra. To omogućuje jarbolu da se malo savija u dimovima pružajući ubrzanje. Ako je jarbol previše krut, protok zraka će se zaustaviti, a čamac se neće ubrzati u sloju. Pokrenite postavljanje svojih plovila tako da čamac pokazuje kao da trčite. Odrežite naslon za leđa tako da je jarbol ravno naprijed i natrag. Postavite stopalo glavnog jedra na dubinu od 15 mm ili što god vam predlaže jedrilica. Podesite napetost udarca tako da se pijavica na glavnom jedru lagano uvije s gornjom letvicom samo paralelno s glavnom strelom. Provjerite oba giba kako biste se uvjerili da je jarbol okomito okomit. Uvijanje bi trebalo biti isto na svakom šablonu. Zatim usmjerite brod kao da ste u ritmu. Pretpostavljam da ste grabulje postavili prema planu plovila pomoću mjernog štapa ili mjerne trake. Naš je cilj postaviti glavno jedro tako da gornja letva bude paralelna s središnjom linijom strele podešavanjem naslona i jarbola. Kad se jednom postavi, ne bi trebalo biti potrebe za promjenom u rasponima vjetra osim 1 mm dotjerivanja stražnjice. Na nedavnom sastanku zumiranja s Bradom Gibsonom za Central Park MYG u SAD -u, Brad je govorio o podešavanju pozadine za plus ili minus 2 mm. Ne znam za vas, ali u prošlosti sam bio malo agresivniji oko korištenja backstaya. Sada razumijem više o preciznosti postavljanja i znam što rade vrhunski momci, oprezniji sam. Uz malo sreće, ako ste učinili sve ovo, imat ćete savršenu opremu, a ako niste pretjerali s napetošću pokrova, oprema će vam uspjeti u naletima. Na webu postoji dovoljno informacija o postavljanju opreme, kako biste mogli postići pravu postavku prvi put i što je još važnije, ponovno je stvorite svaki put kad krenete na plovidbu. Evo nekoliko slika koje prikazuju utjecaj promjena od 1 mm na oslonac B platforme. Počnite od dna Počnite pri dnu i nadopunite skup slika. Oni prikazuju prebend ugrađen u jarbol, a zatim postupni utjecaj do 5 mm dodatnog naslona. Najbolji učinak možete vidjeti na omekšavanju lužine. Isprobajte ovo na vlastitom brodu i pogledajte kako izgleda vaša oprema. Zanemarite postavljanje uboda jer je pijavica preuska i nosač bi se mogao donekle ublažiti. Sljedeći put kad ovo probam, kameru ću postaviti na stativ tako da se kut ne mijenja između slika. Sutra ću dobiti sličan set snimaka za A rig. Postavljanje platforme - utjecaj 5 mm na platformu A. Samo kratki post koji odražava moje igranje s platformom i razmišljanja o postavkama za različite uvjete vjetra i sjeckanja. Pogledajte fotografije ispod. Naravno na povjetarcu izgled jedra bit će nešto drugačiji. Uređaj postavljen s dubinom od 15 mm i ravnim jarbolom. Postavljanje za nemirnu vodu. Izgubit će se zavoj na laganom povjetarcu radi ubrzanja nad valovima Slika prikazuje kako, počevši s ravnim jarbolom, koliki je utjecaj dodavanja 5 mm na stražnju stranu, ostati na platformi A. Preko 10 mm leđa izaziva izobličenje jedra Next Section Weigh and check measure

Trkačka pravila i taktike "Naučite pravila kao profesionalac, pa ih možete prekršiti poput umjetnika." - Pablo Picasso Što trebaš znati Snimljeni seminar RYA Racing pravila Promjene u novim pravilima utrka 2021-2024 Pravilnik i studije slučaja Kompletni izvori pravila za utrke za natjecatelje, suce i druge službene osobe utrke Provjerite svoje znanje Detalji Ako planirate utrke ovog ljeta, morate imati barem rudimentarno razumijevanje pravila utrkivanja. Npr. Luka ustupa mjesto desnom boku, čamac za pretjecanje ostaje čist, mjesto za označavanje mora se dati svakom unutarnjem preklapajućem čamcu unutar zone (4 dužine broda od oznake) i tako dalje. Poštujući pravila, jamči da nećete uzrujati svoje kolege konkurente. Naravno za ozbiljne trkače, pravila predstavljaju priliku i mogu se koristiti za stjecanje taktičke prednosti. Npr. Pri približavanju oznaci vjetra, konačni prihvat na desni bok (pod pretpostavkom oznake zaokruživanja luke) trebao bi biti najmanje 2 duljine broda izvan zone. Na taj način imate prava na bilo koji lučki čamac koji se približava oznaci i mora uloviti u zoni. Nakon taktiziranja, oni neće imati nikakva prava, a ako vas navedu na skretanje s vašeg kursa, kaznit će se. Jeste li znali da čamac kada miruje na startnoj liniji postaje prepreka pa stoga možete pozvati vodu na drugom čamcu ako zaokružite prepreku. Samo jedan primjer primjene pravila od strane kviza o pravilima pravila jedriličarske udruge SAD -a. Bit će dobro da imate jasno razumijevanje pravila na početku, pri preprekama i ocjenama jer se mnogo može postići ili izgubiti manipuliranjem pravilima u svoju korist. Također je pametno biti jasan o tome kako tučete. Morate biti jasni i sažeti. U pravilima su definirani pozivi koje smijete upućivati, npr. 23 soba za ukrcavanje, pozivanje na prosvjed (24 protesta 06), čamac 98 izvan kontrole, a postoje i taktičke tuče, npr. Desni bok, ostanite gore, preklapajte se, označite sobu, ne soba za označavanje. Posljednja točka o tuči, pobrinite se da budu glasni i jasni kako bi je svi konkurenti mogli čuti dok se možda šire duž obale. Kompletan resurs o pravilima utrka za natjecatelje, suce i druge dužnosnike utrke RacingRulesofsailing.org Pravilnik je ovdje zajedno sa knjigama slučajeva: https://www.rya.org.uk/racing/racing-rules/Pages/racing-rules-downloads.aspx Pozivna knjiga World Sailing za radijsko jedrenje Svrha ove knjige je za natjecatelje i službene osobe utrke pružiti odobrena tumačenja pravila utrkivanja tijekom plovidbe prema RRS -u, uključujući Dodatak E, Pravila jedriličarskih utrka. https://www.sailing.org/documents/caseandcall/call_book_radio.php Evo poveznica na seminar o pravilima RYA održan 2020 Uvod u pravila utrkivanja https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFCuwTuW200 Početak https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KanGIVzhym0 Vjetrovita noga https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyOx5TAahw4 Oznake 1. dio https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzmP5BMkVgE Trčanje https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQxeasGGr-s Oznake 2. dio Masterclass https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMTYEgv8WjE Ovdje je zaista korisna stranica za utrke modela jahti viših sudaca Sail Canada koja pokriva promjene Pravila utrka za 2021.-2024. I bonus stavke, uključujući razliku između Pravilnog tečaja, Markove sobe i Prednost puta: https://sites.google.com/site/johnsrcsailingrulesandtactics/home Kako biste svoje znanje primijenili u praksi, evo sjajne igre koju sam pronašao na webu. Sučelje je pomalo nezgrapno, ali će osporiti vaše znanje. http://game.finckh.net/indexe.htm Ovdje je još jedan dobar test znanja https://www.ussailing.org/competition/rules-officiating/dave-perrys-100-best-racing-rules-quizzes/ Konačno https://www.rcgroups.com/sailboats-59/ . Jedna nit je o pravilima (četvrta nit odozgo prema gore kad sam pogledao, predvođena kanadskim guruom vladavine Johnom Boallom. On već neko vrijeme nije sudac, ali mislim da je sada u odboru za pravila IRSA -e i obično je prilično dobro. Nekoliko je puta ušao međunarodni sudac Gordon Davies.

The Project I have sailed an IOM for two years and think I am beginning to understand how the boats are fitted together and pimped for speed. My challenge with racing the IOM is dealing with speed in a breeze so a sensible solution to developing my skill was to buy a faster boat and get used to the speed as well as understand how another boat design work and could be optimised. In looking into the Marblehead designs, I note that the Grunge is the boat of choice but unfortunately there were none available when I looked. The were a few Starkers designs available built by Dave Creed which seemed to be a good platform to get me started and one in particular took my eye so I took the plunge and bought it. Over the autumn and winter this year, my plan is to optimise the boat. It has a standard A rig, B, C 1,2,3. The A is a standard swing rig and the others conventional. All will need re rigging as the cord is over four years old and whilst not used cannot be considered to be reliable. The next section looks at the jobs list on the new boat.

Vrijeme Što trebaš znati Prognoze su doista relevantne samo za plovidbu na otvorenim vodama. Najbolji dio prognoze na jezercu s drvećem je vidjeti hoće li padati kiša. Detalji Prognoza je prilično irelevantna za model jahtanja na ribnjaku okruženom drvećem. Prognoza bi mogla biti za 25 čvorova povjetarca, ali ribnjak može osjetiti samo 15 čvorova u udarima. Daleko je bolje sići na jezero rano i promatrati što se događa, a možda i izbaciti svoj čamac na vodu kako bi ispitali uvjete i čak imali drsku praksu. Korisno je znati hoće li vjetar zamahnuti tijekom dana, npr. Tijekom prolaska fronta. Možda ćete moći uočiti promjenu u uzorcima vjetra na jezercu kad zamah počne. Prognoza kiše ili grmljavine bit će relevantna za određivanje odgovarajuće odjeće. Prognoza za plovidbu radio jahtom na otvorenoj vodi, npr. West Kirby, Lincoln, Fleetwood ili na moru, mnogo je relevantnija. Predviđena brzina i smjer vjetra postaju točni i gotovo možete izabrati svoj uređaj na njegovoj stražnjoj strani, a bilo koje promjene tijekom dana mogu se predvidjeti ili barem primijetiti i na njih reagirati. Jeftini anemometar također može pomoći ako su uvjeti granična linija između platformi (vidi Amazon). Naravno, prije ćete prikupiti relevantne podatke kako biste mogli odabrati odgovarajuću opremu prema brzini vjetra. Postoje mnoge vremenske aplikacije, Windy, Guru vjetra, Weather Pro, Met Office. Osobno smatram da je Windy vrlo koristan, ali najbolje je pitati što lokalno stanovništvo koristi jer bi njihova aplikacija trebala biti najrelevantnija za vašu lokaciju. u sažetku Poznavanje prognoze vjetra važno je na otvorenoj vodi, ali na jezercu je promatranje i ispitivanje jedini način za utvrđivanje uvjeta. Veze Vjetrovito Anemometar Pročitajte vrhunsku pozitivnu recenziju .