Search Results

It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

Working up a Britpop As most of you know I gave in and bought a Britpop mid 2021 to take out the one variable to boat speed that was unknown to me. It was not that my Alternative was slow, it was just all the fast designs today have a significant chine and volume at the back end and that sowed an element of doubt in my mind over my boats overall performance. Funnily enough I thought that any tiny lack of performance was in light weather rather than heavy. In a breeze on flat water, I felt the Alternative had a slight edge The road to glory is not as simple as buying a Britpop or similar modern design and does not lead to race winning performance. Here is my story so far. The initial set up The third hand hull (2014 Robot build) was sound with a few scratches on the hull and bulb that I was able to polish out however it had a couple of chunks taken out of the trailing edge of the fin. It had an excellent RMG winch and fittings so nothing had to be done to the hull fin and bulb. There was no RC so I bought a Futaba I6 transmitter and receiver which I found to be excellent and replaced the rudder servo with a futaba 3010. The reason for using a Futaba instead of the Flysky was the Futaba had a ratchet on the winch. I coated all the connections in Corrosion X to stop any corrosion in salt water. However I found that was not enough as when the radio pot leaked with salt water and I left it for a couple of days, the connectors showed signs of corrosion and had to be replaced. A cut down kilner jar rubber seal inserted in the lid fixed the leak or so I thought and replaced connectors got the electrics back up and running reliably. The hull is cleaned with T cut and left at that. There are a couple of chips in the trailing edge of the fin but I have not noticed any problem with that but are now repaired. I had worked up good rigs on my Alternative and all I had to do was transfer them to the Britpop. The rigs are BG sails set on PG spars with 11 and 7 mm pre bend on the A and B rig. The settings are almost identical between the boat designs. You can see the rig set up here. although I have made a few changes to the jib attachment at the head because the loop knot I used to attach the topping lift slipped on the B and C rig with disastrous results so I attach the topping lift and jib luff direct to the hook on the mast (See the story here ) . On the A rig, my loop knot is a bowline with a locking half hitch coated in super glue to make sure there is no slippage. there are more pictures of the current rig below. The sheets are 35kg line as is the line to the winch. The sheets need replacing regularly but I find anything heavier does not ease effectively in very light weather. I have tested the 35kg line in 25-30 knots of breeze with the C rig and top end of the A rig so they are strong enough. I use the standard setup settings on the BG website as my starting point and always carry a rig stick to make sure the rake is correct and therefore the boat is balanced and run a tape over the foot and leach measurements. A wise man in Birkenhead said to me, the secret in setting up the boat is to have a list of goto settings and keep everything as simple as possible. There are changes made to my original rig setups which I have previously documented but the latest are from events occurring at the 2 Islands ranking event where I broke a shroud and had no spare. I now have spare A and B Jibs on booms, and completing spare A and B masts with mains, along with spare shrouds and backstays. The last thing was to put the boat in the measuring tank to look at two things. One was the fore and aft balance of the boat which I am happy to say is good. The bow was out of the water for just under an inch from the back of the bow bumper so no need to do anything. The other thing was to see if I could drop the bulb/fin as I know we had approximately a 5 mm gap to the measuring bar when last measured. Sure enough, it could drop 4.5mm which does not sound a lot but sailing hard up wind, moving 2.5kg, 4.5mm further out is quite a bit of righting moment. Of course, now I need a securing bolt with an extra 5mm on it. To drop the fin, I put together spacers on top of the fin (three section of cable tie stuck together with super glue and packed out the trailing edge with Isopon so the fin was nice and snug in the case. The last thing was to replace my futaba 3010 servo with a BLS471sv. It was not a cheap replacement but the rudder is tighter with no movement and centres perfectly every time. WIth the 3010, if you move the rudder, there was about 5mm movement on the trailing edge. With the 471 there is no movement at all. Once the Britpop was set up and sailing it was time to apply some magic which I hate to say only seems to come through experience, racing and practice, or as my old 470 sparing partner and super coach said, you just need many hours on the water. The observations below are my learnings from the racing so far. Where is the magic A simple rig setup Articles on setting up the rig on an IOM may talk about how the mast control is split into 3 sections. The bottom third is controlled by the mast ram, the middle third is controlled by the spreaders and the rig tension and the top third is controlled by backstay tension. That is the easy bit. The hard bit is to determine what your initial racing setup should be based on your understanding of the mast bend/mainsail relationship. The experts are able to set their boats up almost by feel. They have done it so many times before and know what works and what doesn't work and have good reliable base settings. The ultimate test of a correct set up is to tack your boat on the limit of a rig and have the boat accelerate away with little or no helm interaction. To learn about the impact of different adjustments, I like to experiment by laying the boat with the mast horizontal. Bear in mind I use BG sails which has luff curve built in so giving great flexibility in the way you shape the sail and these are fitted to a PG mast (10mm prebend) on a Britpop. My goal is to understand how the mast bend works given different settings from one extreme to another. Once I have been through this exercise, I identify one mid range setting, mark everything up to this setting and this will be my start point for racing. If there is more or less wind, I will make mm adjustments to the backstay, and maybe shroud tension. The first thing to do is set the mast up with relatively slack shrouds for light weather. The leeward shroud must not go soft when on the wind and then apply enough backstay so the mast is as straight as possible even through the deck. You should have a couple mm of rake on your spreaders. This is the starting point for light weather. Now if you apply more backstay you begin to de-power the rig, the mast will bend evenly but more in in the central third. If you keep the shroud tension the same and apply more backstay, the main will end up flat at the middle/ bottom third and be too full at the top and may even break down in the middle, if you overdue the backstay tension. Our goal is to keep the power low down and blade out or flatten the top. As the wind builds above an imaginary 5 knots or so, gradually stiffen the mast low down by applying a little more rig tension and add a tiny bit of reverse bend at the deck with the mast chock. Remember the rig tension will affect the middle third of the mast. As you stiffen the bottom and middle third of the mast, you encourage more bend at the top which will help blade out the sail effectively depowering the rig. The rig tension is gradually increased through the wind range, 0-5, 5-10,10-15. At the top end of the A rig you need max rig tension to get as much bend as possible in the top third of the mast so you blade out the top of the sail. You should end up with slight reverse bend at the deck level, an even bend through the mast with slightly more induced at the top. If it all works out when sailing upwind, your main should fill evenly top to bottom and invert at the top as the rig becomes overpowered. The goal of this exercise is to develop an understanding of how the rig works not to develop a myriad of settings for different wind ranges. Once you have tried this indoors and understood how everything fits together, find a mid point setting (5 to 10 knots) and test it out on the water. If you are happy with what you see, mark everything up so you can repeat the setup when you next rig your boat. The usual rules apply for rig set up, set the kicker for downwind, use the backstay for upwind leach tension, make the jib slot parallel to the main as well as using the BG measurement for distance from leach line to jib leach and main and jib foot depth. From this setup you will only need to apply mm adjustments to the backstay, and maybe a slight increase of decrease on shroud tension. When I set up, I have marked positions for the shroud bottle screws (locking nuts), sheet hooks, sail foot depths, mast rake and leach twist distances from the topping lift, sheeting angle for the main and jib. With these as a starting point, I know I have a reliable setup and if I need to adjust anything by more then a few mm, something is wrong in my initial setup. Some pictures of the extreme setting to see their impact on the mainsail 1 The shrouds are as slack as they can be with a straight mast. Perfect starting point for light weather The effect of too much backstay with little rig tensions. The sail has inverted at the numbers and the top of the mast is still relatively straight at the top third. The same setting as above only I have Increased the shroud tension to the max. Note how the middle has straightened out. I could straighten the middle of the mast more if I want with a little more mast chock. Setting adjustments are subtle for any given condition and needs only mm's of change but one must read the settings guide thoroughly, otherwise basic mistakes can be made. In light weather I noticed at one of the ranking events, that Chris Harris who won the day, using more depth in the jib foot in light weather and I estimated it to be 25-30mm. The BG standard measurement is circa 22mm. It was the same on his mainsail, so I tried the same and went from 22 to 30 and saw an increase in speed with the boat pointing at the same height or higher to windward. Of course you still need to sail fast and free to maximise speed around the course. On making further enquiries about the main and jib foot depth, I had assumed that the BG measurements were from the centre of the boom to the foot of the sail. I emailed Brad Gibson and he replied saying that the measurement is from the edge of the booms which make 5mm difference. Took me 6 months to work that one out. The second setting adjustment was on the mainsail in a breeze. I have always struggled to keep the top third of the main from backwinding at the top end of the A rig, even with the jib leech well open. I found by flattening the foot by 5mm, increasing the shroud tension to move the bend up the mast with 1-3 mm of extra back stay, the top of the sail is flattened and works more effectively and does not backwind so much in the gusts. It seemed similar to when we used to blade out the top of the mainsail on fractional rig yachts. When you measure the luff curve on the mainsail luff of a BG sail, there is a max of 10mm in a smooth curve from the mast head to 600mm down. This is the ideal curve one needs to achieve on the mast so the top of the sail flattens evenly and remains stable. I slightly flatten the jib on flat water at the top end of the A rig but only by 5mm or so. The third adjustment is with the shrouds. Starting lose in light weather they should be progressively tightened as the wind builds. The critical thing to look for is that the mast stays in column on either tack when set up for windward work and the leeward shroud should not go slack when the boat is under pressure otherwise the windward spreader will push the middle of the mast to leeward. The shrouds should not be so tight that the middle of the mast cannot flex fore and aft to de-power the rig in a gust. Check that the shrouds are of equal length when pulled down the front of the mast so you know when equally tensioned the mast will be upright and when you rig the boat, lay it on the ground or stand so you can see down the mast to make sure there is no sideways bend caused by uneven shrouds tension and double check the backstay crane is central. When the boat is set up correctly it rarely needs changing. I have sailed for a whole day with variable conditions without changing a thing. If you find yourself tinkering after each race your boat is not optimised. If the wind does build during the day you will need to tighten the jib luff slightly which has the effect of tightening the jib leech. A loose jib leech will cause the boat to luff up in a breeze and that is slow. If you have a transmitter with a ratchet sheet, you have a huge advantage with the precision you can set the sheeting angle of the sails. The video below show the effect of easing the sheets 1 2 or 3 clicks. Double click on the screen for full screen view. Once your boat is set up, the rest is down to your sailing skill which I cover on another page. See my latest setup checklist at the bottom of the page but I regularly re read the BG setup tips to make sure I have not made any silly mistakes. Finally a couple of pictures. The first is the method of keeping the jib boom as low as possible. I use a sheet hook with a series of holes spaced 2.5mm apart so I can get the jib as close to the deck as possible. The only downside with the use of the clamp on the boom is that the line wears after several weekends and has to be replaced however this is only a 5 minute job. I have changed to tying the tack line onto the boom which eliminates there clamp, sheet hook and ring The next picture shows how I have lowered the mast by 7 to 10mm to get the lower band below the deck level by 5mm. It involved modifying the kicker fitting, shortening the length of it by 10mm which I explained in a thought for the day. I also learnt how salt crystallises inside your mast if you do not flush them out on a regular basis. Note that if you lower the mast too much the gooseneck will not be able to but up against the mast ram and stop any mast rotation. I use a standard Cunningham arrangement feeding to the two cable ties and the bowsie is to tighten the jackstay (luff wire of the mainsail). This one shows my final jib head arrangement for the A rig which allows the jib to freely rotate in very light weather. The design is the one suggested by sails etc however I have gone back to attaching the leech line and jib luff to the hook on the mast Here is the sailsetc boom end fitting that eliminated the wear on the elasticated topping lift. The elastic runs inside the boom. Here you can see the velcro in the radio pot which allows me to position everything at the top of the pot so I have no issues if salt water accidentally gets in. A note for open water compared to inland sailing In open water there is a good chance you will be sailing in waves. The boat is constantly accelerating and de-accelerating. The sails will nearly always require more depth and twist than on flat water to power through the waves. Again we are only talking a mm or two of change in your setting but it will make a huge difference. One last thing. I picked up a rig tension meter in mid 2022 and found this to be invaluable. Bearing in mind the impact of rig tension on the middle third of the mast, you must have a base starting point. If you want one, email JohnGill1003@gmail.com . He is based in the UK. It is a quality product and each one is individually tested. Prije nekog događaja Odredite koji je vaš cilj u jedrenju Poznaj svoje trkačka pravila i taktike Pažljivo upravljajte svojim ulaganjem održavanje plovila Brzo plovite desnom stranom ugađanje i postavljanje plovila Upoznajte svoje radio kontrole Učinkovit vježbanje brodom Osigurajte dosljedno postavljanje pomoću kontrolni popisi Znajte kako vrijeme će vam pomoći Koristan reference

After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

Zaokruživanje oznake vjetra Što trebaš znati Izbjegavajte gužve Nemojte pogoditi cilj Znajte svoja pravila Dođite u zonu na desnom boku Detalji Na vjetrometini postoje male mogućnosti za osvajanje mjesta, ali velike mogućnosti za gubljenje. U krajnjem slučaju, mogli biste doći do prve oznake koja dolazi u luku, ali ne možete pronaći prazninu u redu s desnim brodovima koji ulaze u oznaku. Morate proći iza svih desnih brodova koji se nižu jedan za drugim i mogli biste zaokružiti posljednji. Dakle, zlatno pravilo koje se priprema za vjetrovitu oznaku je da se približite na desni bok, udaljivši najmanje 6 dužina broda od oznake, tako da nema sumnje da ste se uhvatili izvan zone. Ako postoji oznaka rasipača, ostavite malo prostora za vjetar kako biste izbjegli bilo kakav ometani zrak i osigurajte da možete doploviti najvećom brzinom do oznake rasipača. Ako pogledate neke od vjetrovitih oznaka koje zaokružuju svijet u Brazilu, možete vidjeti mnoge primjere dobitaka i gubitaka. Na dnu ovog članka nalazi se nekoliko veza, a sve videozapise s prvenstva pogledajte OVDJE Na svom pristupu pokušajte izbjeći gomile čamaca. Uvijek će vas usporiti ograničavajući kretanje, pa čak i tjerati vas od cilja. U najgorem slučaju, možda ste umiješani u incident i morate izvesti kaznu Nije potrebno spominjati izbjegavanje udarca u oznaku ili njezinog rasipača zbog kaznenog zavoja. Dajte sebi malo više prostora. Znajte svoja pravila na marku Evo ključnih pravila Zona oznaka ima 4 dužine broda R18 Svaki čamac koji pristaje u označenoj zoni praktički nema prava Ako se uhvatite u zoni, a desni brod iza mora zaletjeti da vas izbjegne, snosit ćete kaznu. Nemate prava na sobu s oznakama. Ako se dva čamca hvataju u isto vrijeme u zoni, onaj s druge strane luke mora se držati čistim, a novo se preklapanje uspostavlja nakon što se pristajanje završi Ako pogodite oznaku jer ste povrijeđeni, oslobođeni ste odgovornosti i ne morate skrenuti Primjeri videa Kad krene po zlu Radnje kod oznake rasipača

Nakon plovidbe "Čuvajte svoj brod i on će se pobrinuti za vas" Što trebaš znati Uvijek zaštitite svoj brod od izravnog sunčevog svjetla Uvijek osušite čamac i jedrite nakon utrke Isperite unutrašnjost trupa s pola šalice vode ako ste plovili u slanoj vodi Uklonite flaster kako biste omogućili ventilaciju Osušite jedra ručnikom kako biste spriječili nastanak vodenih žigova Provjerite linije za znakove trošenja i čvorove koji bi se mogli olabaviti Očistite i zaštitite elektriku vazelinom ili ekvivalentom Zaštitite peraje izolacijskom pjenom Otpustite sve uređaje za zatezanje jedra, kicker, cunningham, jackstay itd Čuvajte jedra i platforme u kutiji radi zaštite Detalj Prije nego što počnem, treba spomenuti jednu stvar. Između utrka kada vaš čamac ne izlazi iz vode po sunčanim danima, ostavite ga u hladu ili pokrijte ručnikom. Ako to ne učinite, može doći do iskrivljenja kormila ili peraje, a do velike vrućine doći će do ponovnog stvrdnjavanja epoksida. Dakle, završili ste s jednodnevnim utrkama i mislite da je sve gotovo. Ne baš. Uložili ste puno vremena i novca u svoj čamac i jedra i prema njemu se treba odnositi s poštovanjem. Pa što biste trebali učiniti. Uvijek temeljito osušite čamac ručnikom i ispustite svu vodu koja je ušla u čamac. Uklonite zakrpe s krajnje palube kako biste omogućili protok zraka kroz trup i osušili unutrašnjost. Ne želite nikakvu kondenzaciju kada se čamac skladišti tijekom tjedna. Ako plovite u slanoj vodi, a čamac je iscurio, stavite pola šalice svježe vode u trup i isperite svu sol. Pažljivo osušite jedra ručnikom kako biste spriječili tragove vode. Olakšajte sve zatezne linije kako vam se jedra ne bi deformirala. Nakon što se potpuno osuše, vratite ih u kutiju za skladištenje. Skenirajte linije na vašem brodu radi istrošenosti i provjerite jesu li čvorovi pričvršćeni. Ako su čvorovi superlijepljeni, nikada se ne smiju otpustiti. Provjerite ima li posude za radio vlage i osušite je, odvojite bateriju i izvadite je za ponovno punjenje kasnije. Dobra je politika nošenje rezervnih baterija. Odmah nakon što izvadite čamac iz vode, stavite izolacijsku cijev od pjene na prednji i zadnji rub peraje, žarulje i kormila kako biste jamčili da se neće oštetiti u transportu. Prilikom lokalne plovidbe i prijevoza potpuno opremljenog broda, pobrinite se da trup sjedi na nečemu čistom i mekom, ili ako prevozite bez platforme, stavite prsten izolacije cijevi oko pramca i krme. To će obustaviti plovilo u zraku i tako spriječiti trošenje bočne strane trupa.

Na dan (kliknite plavi tekst) Postavljanje sebe jednako je važno kao i postavljanje broda Upotrijebite ponovljiv postupak da biste postavljanje broda Pametno iskoristite vrijeme plovidbe prije početka Start je 80% utrke, neka bude dobar Slijedite svoj plan za prvu vjetrovitu nogu i pripremite se za spuštanje u čamce kako biste došli do željene strane staze Rano planirajte zaokruživanje oznake Windward , dođite na desni bok i izbjegnite hrpe brodova Postavite da biste došli do željene strane trčanja Oznaka zavjetrine - Budite u čamcu, priđite široko i završite blizu oznake Zadnji udarac - Otpustite poklopac da biste zadržali položaj Za oznake cilja primjenjuju se ista pravila kao i za oznaku vjetra. Izbjegavajte lijepljenje u zoni Prođite kroz svoju kontrolnu listu nakon plovidbe , očistite i osušite brod, olabavite jedra itd. Zlatna pravila Kloni se nevolja Spajanje svega - Videozapis utrke svjetskog prvenstva s taktičkim glasom

Australske stranice Radio kontrola plovidbe u slanoj vodi Darren Paulic objavio je to na Facebook RC Sailing Group Radio jedrilica Radio Supplies Australia Radio jahte Red Ant Radio upravljački uređaj SailRC 360 Jedra Mačka jedra FRD Frank Russell Dizajn JG Sails Plan b Spectre Sails Radio jahte Mirage Novozelandske stranice Vickers RC Jedrenje Oprema za radio jahte Radio Ultralite Yachtin g NZ Radio jahterska udruga

The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

Zlatna pravila “ Pobjeda ne znači uvijek biti prvi. Pobjeda znači da vam ide bolje nego ikad prije. ” - Bonnie Blair Što trebaš znati Cilj nije pobijediti, već izvršiti svoj plan Ne morate pobijediti u utrci da biste osvojili seriju Start je 80% utrke Jedrite vlastitom utrkom i izbjegavajte velike grupe čamaca Kloni se nevolja Za svaki prekršaj odmah se izriče kazna Zabavite se i uživajte u utrkama Sviđa mi se citat pri vrhu ove stranice. Samo jedna osoba može biti pobjednik pa kakav cilj imati: "Učiniti bolje nego što si ikada prije učinio". Koja su ključna rješenja za utrke s ove web stranice. Razgovarali smo o tome da se ne fokusiramo na pobjedu, već na izvršavanje vašeg plana. Otkrio sam kako pobijediti u mladosti ne fokusirajući se na radost što sam pobjednik, već na sve detalje koji su potrebni za pobjedu. Jedrio sam u utrci s ispravnim načinom razmišljanja i fokusom, kad sam se odjednom, prvi put u životu, našao na čelu flote. Što sam učinio? U šoku zbog situacije, razmišljao sam o tome da ne izgubim mjesto i prestao sam razmišljati o detaljima. Možete li pogoditi što se dogodilo? Vratio sam se u flotu. Međutim, nakon što sam uspostavio način razmišljanja fokusiranja na detalje, moje mjesto na čelu flote je uspostavljeno i više se nisam osvrtao. U nizu ne morate pobjeđivati u svakoj utrci. Dosljednost i pridržavanje vašeg plana donijet će vam niz vrhunskih rezultata. Nikad ne znaš što će se dogoditi prije početka dana, ali možeš kontrolirati ono što možeš kontrolirati, tj. priprema, kontrolni popisi, proučavanje vode, vježbanje prije događaja itd. Ispravite detalje i dobit ćete rezultate. Ne mogu dovoljno naglasiti da je utrka gotovo završena nakon prve minute plovidbe. Da, bit će pomaka i promjena mjesta, ali hijerarhija je uspostavljena. Dakle, ako ćete vježbati i usredotočiti se na bilo što, usredotočite se na početak. Nećeš biti razočaran. Ako gledate utrke, vidjet ćete da uvijek postoje grupe čamaca koji se međusobno ometaju, borbe pasa, lupanje itd. Ako se uključite u grupu, u najgorem slučaju riskirate incident i kaznu, u najboljem slučaju usporit će vas dok se borite da pobjegnete od čopora. Želite sve ovo izbjeći. Čuvajte se od nevolja i ostanite čisti. Učinite to i vidjet ćete da ćete pokupiti mjesta jer će se drugi mornari usredotočiti na male bitke i izgubiti pojam o cjelokupnom planu. Ako ipak učinite prekršaj, morate odmah doći na red, a ne na pola puta do sljedeće dionice. Nešto što nisam obuhvatio i vjerojatno najvažnija stavka na ovoj web stranici je zabava. Prilikom plovidbe trebali biste se ceriti od uha od radosti što ste vani u prekrasnom okruženju, uz dobru prijateljsku zafrkanciju i brz, dobro plovan čamac. Kakvo će zadovoljstvo biti učiniti bolje nego što ste ikada bili.

Fotografije ljubaznošću Nike Davis https://nikadavis.com IZGRADITE, POSTAVITE, UGLASITE I UTRKITE MEĐUNARODNU JAMU OD JEDNOG METRA (IOM) Latest Site News 06/01/2025 NEW SEARCH BUTTON ADDED IN TOP RIGHT CORNER OF EACH PAGE. IF YOU WANT TO FIND THE BLOG ON HIGH MODE LOW MODE OR MIXING for example, JUST TYPE THE WORD AND YOU WILL GET TO THE RELEVANT PAGES. If you enjoy this site and would like to support it for the future, click on the coffee pot and buy me a coffee. The money goes toward the Wix subscription fees and enables me to avoid hassling you with annoying adverts. This is a not for profit web site and once the sub is covered I will remove the request for support. My thanks to the 66 supporters so far. You have made a difference Uvod Prošle godine sagradio sam i plovio po modelu jahte modela IOM. Bilo je to mukotrpno putovanje istražujući sve informacije, a kao bivši svjetski prvak u gumenjacima, olimpijski aktivist, skiper i taktičar, želio sam zaroniti duboko u resurse IOM -a koji će mi pomoći na mom putovanju. IOM -ove informacije razbacane su po webu pa mi je imalo smisla katalogizirati ono što sam naučio, dodati svoje znanje i iskustvo u utrkama na ono što je već tamo i pokazati moju "Alternativu" od staklenog epoksida. Stavljajući znanje na ovu web stranicu i dijeleći ga s pridošlicama i postojećim vlasnicima, nadam se da će to pružiti vrijedan resurs i prečicu za nadogradnju na njihovom postojećem znanju. Ako sam propustio neku vrijednu web stranicu, proslijedite vezu i ja ću je dodati. . Postoje 4 odjeljka. 1 Katalog web stranica za proizvođače čamaca, jedriličare, dobavljače opreme itd. Pogledajte jelovnik "Korisne web stranice" 2 Pojedinosti o svemu što sam naučio tijekom svoje jedriličarske karijere, zajedno s najboljim savjetima s weba kako bih na najbrži način zaobišao stazu. Pogledajte jelovnik "Utrka s IOM -om". Ja se stalno nadovezujem na ovu temu. 3 Slikovit prikaz gradnje mojih brodova. Pogledajte izbornik "Izgradnja anIOM -a" 4 "Misao za jedan dan" na gornjem izborniku je moj blog o aspektima ugađanja i utrkivanja IOM -a i dijeli moj napredak u kampanji za britpop po cijeloj zemlji. Ako vam se stranica sviđa ili želite vidjeti druge informacije, pošaljite poruku i prijavite se za članstvo ZA KOGA JE OVA STRANICA Početnici, trkači i graditelji brodova amatera NOVO U RADIO JEDRENJU Bez obzira u koju klasu želite ući, postoje vrijedne informacije o dobavljačima, taktikama i utrkama te odabiru broda i napomene o izgradnji ako se odlučite spustiti tom rutom KLUB IOM MORNAR Primjenjujući neke od taktika, urezujući bilješke i učeći nešto više o pravilima, možete poboljšati performanse sebe i svog broda i postići željene rezultate u svojim klupskim utrkama. KONKURENTNI RACER Sve informacije u izborniku Racing IOM bit će relevantne, osobito zapažanja u video zapisima utrka prvenstva kako bi se razumjele nijanse početka i dolaska do prednjeg dijela flote na prvoj strani vjetra. o autoru Što ljudi govore o web stranici "Hvala Nigel na sjajnoj web stranici" "Drago mi je što sam pronašao vašu web lokaciju - tek sam prešao u vlasništvo IOM -a pa mi je jako drago što sam dobio pristup tako sjajnom resursu" "Wow kakav sjajan izvor. Upravo sam se zainteresirao za IOM nakon što sam otkrio na YouTubeu. Hvala" "Resurs za navigaciju (vrlo važan). Samo komentar bi imao pristup većim fotografijama klikom na male, kako bi se vidjeli detalji." Posao obavljen "Kao netko tko je nekada profesionalno izrađivao i upravljao velikim web stranicama, napravili ste sjajan posao." "Oh, mogao sam vidjeti da sam napravio neke greške na SP 2019 u Brazilu ... Dobar posao !" "Nigel, izvanredni napori. Ove će informacije pomoći mnogima od nas. Hvala vam na svim informacijama Izvrstan resurs i vrlo koristan. Hvala vam što ste uložili toliko truda! " "Sjajan posao! ZAVRŠNA RIJEČ AUTORA Htio bih vam zahvaliti što ste pogledali ovu stranicu IOMBuildSetupTuneRace. Moj cilj je objediniti i podijeliti informacije o stvarima IOM -a na web stranici te ih kombinirati s vlastitim trkačkim iskustvom u gumenjacima više od 35 godina. Izgrađen je iz moje frustracije zbog pristupa dobrim informacijama o radijskoj plovidbi, a posebno brodovima IOM -a. Prije sam radio za tvrtku koja je prikupljala datume i prezentirala ih kupcima na internetu (naravno uz veliku naknadu) pa je to za mene bio logičan korak. Web stranica je sada potpuna sa stajališta utrka i izgradnje brodova i nadam se da će pomoći pridošlicama i postojećim vlasnicima. Sljedeća faza je usredotočiti se na utrke i promatranje kombinacija jedra s jarbolom kako biste doista razumjeli koja je najbolja postavka. To je stalan proces učenja. Ako želite još nešto što biste htjeli obuhvatiti, bilo bi mi drago istražiti i objaviti. Molim te obavijesti me . Jednu uslugu koju bih zamolio je povratna informacija. Kažu da nema dobrih vijesti, ali volio bih čuti što mislite. Stranica ima preko 2800 korisnika i proučava se više od 28 dana pa pretpostavljam da su informacije relevantne. Javi mi što misliš. Pošaljite mi veze na sve vaše projekte izgradnje brodova i ja ću ih dodati na web mjesto. Detaljno sam opisao izradu epoksida, ali bih želio referencirati više drvenastih projekata. Podijelite web stranicu što je više moguće kako bi što više koristi imalo koristi. Ovo nije komercijalni pothvat, ali dobivam poticaj vidjevši kako raste broj korisnika, što je moj povratak za izgradnju ove stranice. Čuvajte se i provedite nevjerojatnu godinu plovidbe. Nigel

Kraj "Žestoka koncentracija i fanatična egzekucija ono su što vam je potrebno da završite jako." - Gary Ryan Blair Što trebaš znati Kloni se nevolja Oznaka soba primjenjuje se na cilju Pripremite se za sljedeću utrku Detalj Možda zvuči očito, ali zapamtite na kojem ste krugu završili i budite jasni gdje se nalazi. U utrci za prvenstvo cilj može biti kraći od oznake vjetra pa ne želite krenuti prema oznaci vjetra samo da biste vidjeli kako drugi čamci završavaju i morate se vratiti. Zlatno pravilo na cilju je da se klonite nevolja. Ako je gužva, prijeđite liniju na desnom boku kako biste izbjegli moguće povrede u zadnji čas. Imajte na umu da se zona odnosi na završne oznake pa nemate prava ako se plovite ispred drugog prvenstva plovila unutar zone. Također imajte na umu da drugi mogu izgubiti koncentraciju jer misle da je utrka gotovo pa budite dodatno svjesni brodova oko vas i svih nepredvidivih manevara koji bi mogli utjecati na vaš čamac Prema novim pravilima morate samo staviti luk preko crte, ali najbolje je da potpuno pređete ciljnu liniju, plovite jasno i ako namjeravate zaustaviti čamac, pobrinite se da je daleko od utrke. Možda ste završili, ali drugi brodovi se još uvijek utrkuju. Ako postoji još jedna utrka, odmah počnite s pripremama i po potrebi dovedite svoj čamac radi prilagodbe postavki ili promjene opreme.

Nabavite plan Nakon što sam pogledao sve različite dizajne, zaključio sam da sve što je blizu Britpopa mora biti najbolja opcija s obzirom na moj potpuni nedostatak znanja. Pa sam kupio Alternativni dizajn od BG web stranica i to mi je dalo sve Morao sam izgraditi čamac uključujući ispravnu platformu postaviti mjerenja. Što dobivate u planovima Napomene o dizajnu Raspored palube Plan palube s položajima opreme Bočna nadmorska visina sa svim mjerenjima od krme Okviri trupa Okviri za prednju palubu Predlošci za otvaranje trupa Raspored jarbola Raspored nosača Izgled glavne grane Još jedan dodatak na web stranici BG su postavke grablje za Alternativu Kad sam imao sve planove, bio sam uvjeren da imam sve potrebne podatke za izgradnju broda.